Wednesday, 4 September 2013

Bánh xèo

According to Yotam, this recipe is a vegetarian adaptation of a traditional Vietnamese pancake, typically made with fatty pork and prawns. He writes about his experiences in Hanoi in 2007 in the introduction to this recipe, and how mind-blowing he found the freshness of the vegetables and herbs in the local cooking. Even without venturing to a more exotic location, making this recipe last night was mind-blowing for me. I absolutely loved the combination of flavours and textures that comprise the omelette and its fillings, and the sauce that accompanied everything took it over the top. This recipe is definitely within my top five favourites from Plenty and I can see making it constantly. And I think I might try the sauce as a marinade for grilled chicken at some point, or possibly modify it a bit for a salad dressing. It was so good.

What I enjoyed about this recipe in particular is that it allows me to create a big platter of omelette fillings to set on the table to be served from. I love to cook this way, as it allows for a wide range of customization within a single meal, making it easy to suit my tastes in the moment or allow guests to adapt the meal to their own preferences. This also makes it easy to substitute other fillings in if you are shy one or don't particularly care for a listed ingredient. Everything here is also very fresh, with a minimum of cooking, which allows me to keep the kitchen cool during the warmer weather we've been having lately - not to be undervalued in a tiny place with no air conditioning. The meal also came together quickly - even with vegetable prep, I think this took ~15-20 minutes to put together, and I could probably streamline it to a solid 15 with a bit of tinkering in the recipe order.

Try this one. I don't think you'll be disappointed. As usual, the ingredient list is as presented in the book and the written description includes my alterations and observations.


Bánh xèo
(p. 54, Plenty)

Serves 4

Pancakes
1 1/3 cups rice flour
1 small egg 
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground tumeric
1 3/4 cups coconut milk
a little bit of sunflower oil

Sauce
2 1/2 tbsp lime juice
1 1/2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp sweet soy sauce (kecap manis)
2 tsp fresh grated ginger
1 fresh red chile, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 tsp salt

Filling
1 large carrot, peeled
1 daikon radish, peeled
4 green onions
1 fresh green chile
1 1/2 cups snow peas
1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves
2/3 cup loosely packed Thai basil leaves
1/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves
1 cup mung bean sprouts
1 cup enoki mushrooms

First, a few alterations: I only had large eggs, and so used one of them rather than a small one. I also was out of coconut milk, and so substituted almond milk which I had on hand. I will make the omelettes with the coconut milk next time to see what the difference would be. I was also out of rice wine vinegar, and so substituted white wine vinegar. I grated the garlic on my rasp grater and added it to the sauce rather than having a crushed clove floating around. I was out of mint, and so that was omitted. I also was out of sunflower oil, so I used unflavoured olive oil instead.

To prepare the pancakes, whisk together the flour, turmeric, and salt in a large bowl. In a smaller bowl or measuring cup add the coconut milk and egg and whisk together until well combined. Set aside both mixtures until you want to make the omelettes. Yotam advises that you can mix the wet and dry ingredients together now, but that the batter will thicken as it sits and require thinning with additional coconut milk or water before it is cooked into omelettes. I decided to not mix the wet and dry ingredients together until I was ready to cooke them to avoid having to tinker with thinning the batter later. 

To make the sauce, whisk together all of the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Feel free to adjust the amount of chile to your desired heat preference; at this level, there is a very mild heat. I think if I were to do it again, I'd raise it to two chiles. Set the sauce aside until serving.

To prepare the filling, shred the carrot and the daikon. I used the large holes on a box grater and that worked well. Slice the green onions on an angle into thin pieces, and the snow peas into long, thin strips. Pick the herb leaves from their stems and put them into an appropriate bowl for serving. Slice the chile into long, thin strips as well, cleaning out the ribs and seeds to mitigate some of the heat if you so desire. Place the prepared herbs and vegetables onto a platter or into individual bowls according to your preferences. Add the mushrooms and the bean sprouts to the platter or place them within their own serving dishes. Set the fillings aside until you are ready to serve the meal.

To make the pancakes, combine the dry mixture of ingredients with the wet ingredients that had been set aside earlier. Whisk thoroughly to combine them. You are aiming for a thin, very fluid batter that Yotam describes as having the consistency of light cream. Heat up a frying pan (Yotam suggests nonstick; I had to use what I had, which required more oil), and add a minute amount of sunflower oil. Let the pan come up to roughly medium heat - you don't want things too hot here.


Pour roughly 1/4 of the batter into the prepared pan, and smooth it out into a circle. The edges can be thinner than the middle and get crispy if you like them that way, or the pancakes can be all the same thickness. I found the batter had a tendency to make cakes that were thicker in the middle and therefore required a bit of help from me smoothing them to have a more even thickness throughout. Let the cake sit undisturbed in the pan for 2-3 minutes, or until the underside starts turning a golden brown colour and the top of the cake has bubbles popping on most of its surface. Flip the cake over and cook for another ~2 minutes until the other side has started to turn golden as well. Remove from the pan to a serving plate and keep warm while you cook off the remaining three pancakes.

To serve, place a warm pancake on a plate and arrange your desired vegetables and herbs over it.


Drizzle with some sauce and dig in. I found it enjoyable to fold each side of the cake over the filling and eat it like an open-bottomed burrito, or you could fold it in half like a taco if you wanted to, or even use a knife and fork. I found the sauce would seep through the cake fairly easily and so get onto my fingers, but I figured that was part of the fun.


Enjoy!

Leftover fillings and sauce held well in the refrigerator overnight last night, but the leftover cakes came out stiff and more prone to breaking. I'd recommend making the cakes fresh each time you want them.

Tuesday, 3 September 2013

Fresh Red Currant and Walnut Muffins

I was recently in British Columbia on a road trip. Three of us went, and we were lucky to be hosted by family while we were there. Our hosts took us being there very seriously and went out of their way to show us a good time and great food. As we were packing up the car to head home, we were gifted with a bag of fruit to snack on for the ten hour ride back. In the bag was a smaller bag of fresh red currants, which I had only gotten to taste for the first time on this trip. They are wonderful - bright, slightly tart flavour and brilliant gem-like colour.


We didn't eat them in the car and so I decided to experiment a bit and make muffins out of them so they wouldn't go to waste. Good life choice.

Fresh Red Currant and Walnut Muffins
makes 12

2 cups (10 oz) flour
2/3 cup sugar (mix half and half with brown sugar for a bit richer flavour)
2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
pinch of salt
1/2 cup roasted walnut-infused olive oil
zest of 1 lemon
2/3 cup buttermilk (or milk with a squirt of lemon juice in it if you don't have buttermilk)
2 large eggs (best at room temperature)
1 1/2 tsp vanilla
1 cup fresh red currants
2/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 400F and prepare a muffin tin your preferred way. Set aside for now.

In a large bowl combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Whisk to blend everything together. Add the lemon zest to the dry ingredients and whisk again to evenly distribute. Make a well in the centre of the bowl.

In a large measuring cup, combine the olive oil, buttermilk, eggs, and vanilla. Whisk until everything is thoroughly combined.

Pour the wet ingredients into the well in the dry ingredients and mix gently with a rubber spatula. You want to mix until everything is combined and the batter looks fairly smooth. A few small lumps are okay, they will disappear during baking. Gently fold in the currants and walnuts until they are evenly distributed through the batter.

Portion the batter out evenly among 12 muffin cups. If you want to add a bit of special, stir together 1 tablespoon of sugar with 1/4 teaspoon of cinnamon and sprinkle it over the tops of the muffins.

Bake for 18-20 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into them comes out clean. Let cool for ~5 minutes before snacking. I actually like these better at room temperature than really warm.




Impromptu Chocolate Soufflés

It's been a while and the time I've been spending not-here has been full of good things. I went on a ten day road trip with some friends, introduced them to my home city and then went adventuring in British Columbia. I surprised myself by jumping off a 25-foot cliff into the clearest turquoise water I have ever seen. I tried all kinds of new foods, gave my camera a serious workout, and came home slightly sunburnt and happier than I have been in some time.

And it's not just me experiencing the good times - a friend recently passed her Comps with flying colours and two others recently bought and moved into their first house. We ended up having an impromptu housewarming party on Sunday night, playing board games and baking. I hadn't planned on writing a post for this so I didn't take my good camera, yet it seems that I have developed a habit of photographing most of the cooking that I do now. I thought I'd write this up to show that soufflés aren't that hard despite their reputation - we were mucking around rather haphazardly and they turned out beautifully. The biggest thing to remember is to beat the egg whites enough and not to forget the cream of tartar. We made two batches as there were seven of us there; one batch used Lindt single source Madagascar 70% chocolate, and the other used the Lindt Black Currant chocolate. The currant soufflés won the night, I think. Give some thought to using a flavoured chocolate if you want to experiment - I imagine a mint or chile chocolate would be fantastic as well.

Chocolate Soufflés
recipe slightly modified from Dinners and Dreams

Makes 4

For coating the ramekins
1 tbsp salted butter
1/4 cup of sugar

For the soufflés
3 oz good quality dark chocolate (70%+; consider using a flavoured chocolate)
2 tbsp salted butter
1 tbsp unsulphered molasses
1/4 tsp vanilla
1 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
pinch of ground clove
3 egg yolks

4 egg whites
pinch of cream of tartar

To get started, butter the sides of the ramekins. The original recipe says to use melted butter, but I prefer to use cold butter from the fridge as I find that melted butter tends to slide down the sides of the ramekins while I am working on the rest of the recipe and therefore doesn't do quite what it is intended to do. Once the ramekin has been buttered, pour roughly one tablespoon of sugar into each one and tip them so that the sugar sticks to the butter that you've just applied. The goal is to coat all of the butter with the sugar, so if you need a bit more sugar to make that happen, top up as required and then tap out the excess. What this preparation does is created something for the soufflé batter to cling to as it rises, helping to make the dessert light and airy. Once the ramekins are prepared, set them aside.


Preheat the oven to 375F.

Chop the chocolate you are planning on using into fairly small pieces. This will help it melt faster. Place the chocolate into a medium sized, microwave safe bowl. Add the butter, molasses, vanilla, ginger, cinnamon, and clove, and then microwave everything for 30 seconds. Stir everything together until it has evenly melted. If there is still unmelted chocolate after stirring, microwave everything again for another 30 seconds.

Separate three eggs, reserving the whites in a large bowl for later. Add each yolk to the chocolate batter individually and whisk until fully combined before adding the next yolk. The batter will thicken a bit with the addition of the egg yolks. Once all three yolks have been added, set the chocolate mixture aside for now.

To the reserved egg whites, add an additional egg white and a pinch of cream of tartar. Beat the eggs into soft peaks - they will create soft mounds when you pull the beaters out. If you are in doubt, beat the egg whites a bit longer. It's better to be closer to stiff peaks than have the whites not whipped enough or you won't get the rise you are looking for once they are in the oven. We whipped 8 egg whites at once, and it took us ~15 minutes to get to the right consistency.

Fold the whipped egg whites into the chocolate batter using a rubber spatula. As you fold, the batter will start to lighten in colour. Folding takes time, but is better than regular stirring in this case because it helps to preserve the volume of the egg whites. Keep folding until everything is well combined and a fairly uniform colour.

Divide the batter evenly between the prepared ramekins.


Place the ramekins in the oven (I usually put them on a cookie sheet to make moving them around a bit simpler) and bake for 12-13 minutes. They will look like they have taken a deep breath and will have lovely, domed tops. Do not open the oven while they are baking, as they could collapse due to the change in temperature.


Once they have finished baking, remove them from the oven and serve quickly. Soufflés will deflate as they cool (read: within moments) - this will not affect the flavour, but will impact the presentation. 



They can be served on their own or accompanied by some fruit, ice cream, etc. Enjoy!